I have many thoughts. Most of them stay in my head. Some end up truncated and posted to Bluesky or become an Instagram story.
Honestly, most of me is pretty over the internet and social media. It's exhausting. It's so frequently negative. Hell, I hardly want to podcast anymore.
But that's not what I'm here to talk about. I'm here to talk about surfing. My surf journey that, really, I suppose started in elementary school, flourished (in a sense) in middle school, and then disappeared for a couple decades.
Then I became a dad who struggled to keep up with his kids. And then said kids said that I should really try to get in better shape. And about that same time I went "You know, I regret never getting up on a board."
This is the point where you picture my brain looking like one of those old Reese's peanut butter cup ads "You got chocolate in my peanut butter!"
I could get in better shape by training to surf! Let's fucking go!
But, naturally, it's never that simple. And that's what I'm going to explore here.
So, welcome! Pull up an old beach chair or a towel and let's talk story.